The dawn slowly breaks the …
curtain of the night as I head out around 6:50. Not a soul in sight as usual, but the birds are quite cheerful this morning … it almost feels like I stepped into a classic Disney animated movie.
At the outskirts of the town there is a slight confusion. There are two pilgrims ahead who are a bit confused by a white arrow next to Camino sign … I join them so we get confused together. Eventually we decide to ignore it and go right … sure enough we quickly hit on the yellow arrows.
I chat a bit with Matt from Wales. His first Camino was in 2010, he was just a few days behind “The Way” film crew … back then on some days he did 65 km per day … this time he’s a bit slower, only 40km. At my highly astonished expression he comments “its all mental man”.
Along the path I’m overtaken by Bepi, Steffi and Julia. This section winds along the river and swarms of flies and mosquitoes are everywhere. My Buff really proves itself useful, as I’m wondering where is the next bench. I’ve put on my headphones, the first song starts … and there are the green pastures, right on cue … with benches. I am soon joined by Ray from Florida.
After a snack the path continues straight on … for miles. A slight rain has started so everyone is putting on their rain gear. The rain quickly intensifies followed by a strong wind that blows directly in your face. Its not as strong as Croatian “bura” wind, but its close enough. Fortunately smart locals placed picnic zones every 5-6 km so there are places for taking a break.
Today’s section is a bit tricky because there is more then 17km to the next village, straight across the plain in Spain from My Fair Lady, the windy version.
I chat a bit with Angus and Grace, that wonderful couple from Scotland. Grace is attempting to use Angus and me as wind shields, but alas we are not wide enough to provide shelter. I ask Angus how he plans to vote in the Scottish independence referendum and get “… well there is only one proper choice of course …” in reply, followed by a fascinating discussion on Scottish history and politics. Most enjoyable company.
Finally the next village suddenly pops up ahead … its hidden in a small valley so you see it just before you enter the village. The Scots made reservations here and I move on ahead after a pizza break. Its about 6 km to the next village … nice path in the shade of the trees that follows the main road.
Behind the corner around 15h there is Ledigos, my destination for today. Albergue is combined with a bar, family business … typical by now.
I am joined by Ally and Sandy from California (San Francisco) a retired teacher and a nurse. After a typical albergue ritual I slowly regain my strength.
For dinner we are joined by Bruno from Brittany (the French one) who walks the Camino in stages. He started a few years back from his home.
That was day no. 20.